Jetgala - FALL-WINTER 2022

73 R O Y A L E N F I E L D H I A M L A Y A by Boon S im wi t h Ambe r S im T he sun had yet to rise as we began our daily ritual.This comprised packing up gear, suiting up with our heavy riding gear and boots and inspecting our bike tyres and lights.After a helmet comms check with the team, I press the electric starter to start the bike – but it falters in the morning chill. I rev the engine till it warms up and holds a steady idle.This ritual was essential as any shortcomings could mean an irritation or danger on the relentless roads that lay ahead of us.Today was going to be our greatest challenge yet, with over 335km of winding mountain roads lying between us and the next stop on our journey – the ancient city of Leh. Over the course of two weeks, we would have covered a distance of 1,530 kilometres across India’s Northern provinces, traversing five of the highest motorable passes in the world at altitudes of more than 5,000 metres. Translating to the ‘Land of the high passes’, Ladakh is characterised by its arid moonscape and dramatic mountain ranges, imprinted with an ancient Buddhist tradition brought by early settlers. Set against this backdrop is the iconic highway that bridges Manali to Leh, one of the most sought-after destinations for motorcycle enthusiasts all over the world. The starting point of our journey was Naggar, a hill town located in the Kullu district of Himachal Pradesh. By chance, it was the same place I stayed during my overland trip from London to Singapore 31 years ago. Walking through the stone streets, I noticed more had changed about myself than the quaint little town. No longer did I have the protective armour of my Land Rover nor the intrepidity of my 29-year-old self; yet the beginning of a new adventure evoked the same thrill I felt back then. Having to travel without my passport (which was impounded due to a brush with the law in New Delhi) felt like a practice of surrendering myself to the uncertainties a road trip entails. Photos by Boon Sim